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Cognac Product Knowledge 
Cognac has come to dominate the world brandy market and is recognised all over the globe. In the 16th century the Dutch traded extensively along the French west coast, they began distilling French wine back in the Netherlands, until they realised it would save a lot of storage space on their ships for the return journey if it was already distilled in France. They introduced the Pot Charantais still to the region, and distillation began around 1530. 
Cognac, like the great wines of France, has its own Appellation Controlee ( AC ), which states that brandy of that name must come from six designated vineyard areas (Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, Bois Ordinaires) around the town of Cognac in the Charante region of western France. It also specifies the grapes to be used (there are eight allowable types, Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard being the most used), and that the brandy be distilled twice in the traditional Charantais pot still. The idea being that no matter who produces cognac, the characteristics will be identifiably similar. AC however is not an indicator of excellence, as it has to be said there are several modest cognacs on today's market. The word champagne here has nothing to do with the Champagne region, but they both have the same name for the same reason, namely the nature of the soil, which is high in chalk. The term Fine Champagne may also be seen on cognac labels, this denotes a blend from the two best areas, Grande and Petite Champagne, with Grande Champagne accounting for at least 50% of the blend. 
The distillation period follows the vintage in November and runs until the end of March. The wine is heated to 80C, the vapours collect in the still-head ( the chapeau ) and then pass through the Swan's neck ( Col du Cygne ), and by pipe through a vessel where it partially warms the next batch of wine due for distillation (the chauffe-vin), into the condenser. The result of the first distillation (the broullis), has a strength of between 26 - 30%, and will be about a third the volume (quantity) of the original wine. For the second distillation the brouillis from three distillations are put together and redistilled to produce spirit of up to 72%. On this occasion, the first vapours to come off (the heads), and the last to come off (the tails) are removed. These have alcoholic strengths of around 80% and 60% respectively, and contain toxic substances such as methanol and fusel oils so cannot form part of the potable spirit. However, they still contain usable ethanol so are collected and returned to the still with the next batch of brouillis to be redistilled. The style and quality of the spirit are affected by the original wine, the shape of the still (particularly the chapeau) and the proportion of heart (the middle section between heads and tails) collected as well as the subsequent maturation. 
The spirit is then aged for a minimum of 2 years, usually it will be much longer of course, in casks made of oak from either the Limousin or Troncais forests and both new and used wood are selected. During the ageing period the strength of the spirit will reduce naturally, often to around 60%. It will also mellow and soften, and take on colour and flavour from the wood. What evaporates is known as "la part des anges" (the angel's share) and it leads to black fungus growing on the walls and ceiling of the building housing the casks. During ageing cognacs are regularly blended together to achieve continuity. Prior to release final blending will take place, and dilution to 40% will be carried out with distilled water. The colour may also be altered at this stage with the addition of caramel. The grades of ageing are: 3-star or VS minimum 2 years old VSOP minimum 4 years old XO minimum 6 years old There is also a Comptes system that gives the exact minimum age of any given cognac. Each level is based on the number of years in oak. When the spirit leaves the still it is classed as compte 00, a classification it holds until the end of the distilling season on 31st March. During its first full year in oak it remains compte 00, changing on the 31st March the following year to become compte 01, the following March it becomes compte 02 and so on and so on. 
Because the cellars in Cognac are often quite warm, the spirits develop rapidly. For this reason cognac is sometimes shipped to Britain when young and aged in cold damp cellars. Over the years this produces a much smoother spirit, known as "Early-landed Cognac". The label should state the date of shipment and of bottling, for it is the ageing time in the cask that is important. At present vintage cognac is forbidden in France, but again it may be shipped to Britain for ageing under government supervision. In such circumstances, as long as it is the distillation of a single year, it may bear a vintage date.  |
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